Italien Amalfiküste Amalfi I’m walking under a lemon-covered pergola, stretching as far as the eye can see. The smell of citrus fills the air; it’s almost harvest season, and the plump, golden fruits are dangling heavily above my head. Gaps in the foliage reveal the intense blue of the Tyrrhenian Sea below. Somewhere along the "Sentiero dei Limoni" (Path of Lemons), a scenic trail connecting the towns of Minori and Maiori on the Amalfi coast, I followed a sign. It promised lemon-themed refreshments to short-breathed passersby like myself, braving the hike on this unforgivingly hot, late-June afternoon. That’s how I ended up sipping freshly squeezed lemonade in Giovanni Ruocco’s orchard. Giovanni Ruocco preparing a salad of lemon, olive oil and parsley The sign hasn’t brought in much custom today. "It’s been quiet," says Giovanni, as he thinly slices a freshly-picked fruit for a salad. He has been growing and picking lemons since he was a child. "We see people at the weekends, but it’s nothing compared to before the pandemic. We can really feel the absence of foreigners, especially the Russians and Americans." Despite the government announcing Italy would be opening up for tourism in mid-May, at the start […]


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